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Thursday, February 27, 2020

Philippines: Visiting Breathtaking Batanes

PHILIPPINES: Visiting Breathtaking Batanes

Batanes is the northernmost and smallest province in the Philippines with Basco as its capital. It is located approximately 162 kilometers (101 mi) north of Luzon mainland and just about 190 kilometers (120 miles) south of Taiwan. The whole province is in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The province has gained popularity among Filipinos because of its preserved local culture and beautiful sea and breathtaking mountain ranges.

In February 2020, I travelled for four days in Batanes together with fifteen (15) of my high school friends from my hometown in Baguio City.  We enjoyed the whole of stay in Batanes and we  appreciated, with fond memories, the beauty of Batanes.  I am sharing the bits of our experience.



Travel to Batanes
Going to Batanes is only by air as there are no commercial passenger vessels going there. Visitors can either fly out from Manila or from Clark International Airport in Pampanga.  From Manila flight to Basco is about 1.5 hours while from Clark travel will be only 1 hour. Roundtrip travel cost from Clark is approximately Php12,000 (US$230) for regular fare and  Php 9000 (US$173) for senior travelers.

Clark International Airport -  (February 2020) 
For me, it was my second time to use this airport. I drove over an hour from Manila and parked my car in the “Fly-n-Park” located just beside the departure terminal.  It is a guarded open parking and I paid 250 pesos (less than $5) for each day of use. The terminal is surrounded by many good eateries (including Starbucks), and some duty-free shops. Entering the departure area was not a problem as the security check was fast and staff were courteous.  Check-in counters of PAL opened two hours before the flight, but lines were longer after a while. At the boarding gates, passengers were seated in a common area with snack and souvenir shops surrounding them. Boarding procedures were simple and passengers were asked to take their designated aircon buses to be ferried planeside for boarding.  All is well but I realize this airport terminal may still be very small to be our country's main international airport in the future if ever. 









Manila to Clark via P2P bus from Trinoma, QC direct to Clark, Pampanga
For those coming from Manila, there is also a P2P bus from Trinoma in Quezon City direct to Clark.  Bus trips starts from 2:00 AM every hour on the hour until 9:00 PM.  Bus fare is Php 200 per person less 20 per cent discount for senior passengers. Clark to Manila P2P bus starts from 04:30 AM until 9:30 PM. 

Arrival in Basco, Batanes
Batanes Airport is small airport with very short run-way.  Airport terminal has no luggage conveyor.  On arrival, passengers wait inside the terminal until their luggage are brought into the baggage area from the plane. I did not see porters nor luggage carts. Just outside the Arrival Area, there were just a few eateries and one or two souvenir shops inside the terminal.  The rest of the facilities, including stalls, are occupied by travel and tour offices.  There is also the tourism office that collects P380 (around $7) from passengers as eco-tourism tax in exchange for a bunch of    tickets that will allow you free entrance to tourist sites in the island. 













Four (4) days and three (3) nights visit is recommended
Batanes, with a population of 17, 246 (2015),  may be small compared to other provinces in the Philippines.  However, for one to have full enjoyment of stay, it is suggested that you consider staying for at least four days and three nights. This will allow you to visit the Batang and Sabtang Islands. Batang is the main island of Batanes and the second largest of the Batanes Islands.  Four of the six municipalities of Batanes are located in this 20-kilometer long island including the provincial capital of Basco. Sabtang Island on the other hand is the southernmost island of the Batanes Group of Islands. It is famous for its old stone houses of Ivatans (natives), old churches and white sand beaches.  It is reachable from Batan by 45-minute boat ride.

Our Tour Package - "Batanes Grand Holidays"
It was easy for our group to decide on our program in Batanes after we discovered the "Batanes Grand Holidays" tour package (www.batanespensionivatan.com) offered by Pension Ivantan (0917 177 2022; 0939 957 0222).  Because we were more than eight and seniors, each of us paid a single fee  of  Php 8750 (twin sharing room) for the  tour package for four-days and three-nights which included extensive Batan and Sabtang Island tours, decent accommodation, full delicious board meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner), professional  Ivatan tour guides, air-conditioned vans,  municipal tour fees, airport and boat transfers and eco-tourism fee. Overall, our group was happy with how this package was organized and professionally handled.

Other Senior citizens tour packages offered by the "Batanes Grand Holidays" are indicated in the poster below:

Special Tour Packages for Senior Citizens


Tour Itinerary of 4D/3N (as we did it)

 Day 1 - Tour of Northern Batan Island (starting afternoon on the day of our arrival - 1:30 to 5pm)
  •  Immaculate Conception Cathedral 
  •  Vayang Rolling Hills (picturesque green meadows of Basco)
  •  Basco Lighthouse and Naidi Hills
  •  Mt. Charmel Chapel 
  •  Fundacion Pacita (passing through -- Nest time, I suggest brief snack at Café de Tukon inside Pacita)
  •  Japanese Tunnel
  •  Boulder Beach in Chanpan Valugan
  •  Lunch and dinner at Pension Ivatan
Day 2 - Visit to Sabtang Island
  •  5:30 am - Early breakfast at Pension Ivantan
  •  6:00 am - Depart for San Vicente Port
  •  7:30 - 8:00 am - Travel to Sabtang Island (Note: Boat travel, which takes about 40 minutes, is normally always rough even on good weather condition. Consider taking motion sickness medicine like Bonamine if needed.)
    •  Chavayan Village with stone houses
    •  Sta. Rosa de Lima Chapel
    •  Chamantad Tinyan View Point
    •  Sabtang Weavers Association
    •  Barangay Savidug (stone houses)
    •  St. Thomas Aquinas Chapel
    •  San Vicente Church
    •  Barangay Savidug
    •  Idjang
    •  Nakabuang Beach
    •  Ahaw Arch (Natural Limestone Arch formation)
    • Morong Beach
    •  Lunch at Morong Beach 
    •  Departure from Sabtang via boat
    • Arrive back in hotel at 3:30 pm (this gave the group enough time to walk around town and buy Batanes' famous dried or smoked flying fish)
    • Dinner 
Day 3 - Tour of Southern Batan Island (Tour starts at 9am)
  •  Chawa View Deck
  •  Boat Shelter Port
  •  San Carlos Borromeo Church  in Mahatao
  •  White Beach  in Maydangeb
  •  Old Spanish Lighthouse 
  •  House of Dakay (Kaydian Sourvenir Shop beside it)
  •  Honesty Coffee Shop in Radiwan
  •  Alapad Rock Formation
  • Lunch at Marconine's Food Catering Services
  •  Ranchu a Payaman (Marlboro Hills)
  •  Tayid Lighthouse
  •  Back at the hotel at 4pm
  •  Dinner
Day 4 - Departure for Clark, Pampanga
The check-in procedures on departure can stand lots of improvements. You need to line up and wait for your turn for securing check in the terminal’s main lobby which is  not airconditioned. Immediately after the security check, the check-in area is very small and crowded with only a few counters to check-in. Just a note to remember: if you are bringing home some fresh seafood in Styrofoam containers, don’t seal them until inspection is done at the check-in counter.  Airline personnel have ready packaging tapes to help you seal your containers after inspection. By the way, be sure to label your package. 

Honesty Coffee Shop, Batanes  – “Visit this place and feel real honest”
We visited this place because everyone in Basco seems to be talking about it.  As expected, this “no seller” shop has a variety of goods for sale housed in two “stores” --- both stores sell souvenir items and dry goods but the one affront sells some food items, including snacks and drinks.  In between the two store, there is a small table where you can dine but you need to order your food in advance. Walk further below and you will find the beachfront where you’ll find some fresh buko (coconut) for sale. We snacked, wrote what we consumed in the logbook, and dropped our payment, including tip in the designated box. All went well and we all left happy and feeling honest. (Trip Advisor review by M. G. Imson, 8 June 2018)



Where to stay in Batanes

1. Pension Ivatan, Basco, Batanes – “Very convenient hotel from the airport”
We stayed in this hotel for four days and three nights as part of the Batanes Grand Holiday package.   The hotel is conveniently located just behind the airport in Basco. The hotel is nice and quiet but without wifi connection. As part of the package, I stayed in a twin room with a friend. The room was large enough with toilet and flat TV. Clean towels and toiletries were provided. Unfortunately the room has no free coffee nor free bottled water, no ref and no room safe. 

 In 2018 when I first visited Batanes, the room I got for myself had a queen-sized bed and it came with all amenities of a big hotel --- nice bed, fresh towels and linens, toiletries, free coffee and tea, refrigerator.  However, the room did not have a telephone, no WIFI system and no room safe.  Breakfast came with the room which was served either ala carte or buffet (which was good)  depending on the number of guests the hotel has. 

The Restaurant of the hotel is small but known to be a place to get you local dishes.  Hotel staff were friendly and accommodating.  The hotel has its own bakery located just beside the main entrance which sells freshly baked bread everyone. If you did not avail of the tour package, the hotel has shuttle service (vans) and may be contracted for you to move around during your stay.  If you are in Basco for business or pleasure, I recommend this hotel.

Pension Ivatan

Coffee bar at main lobby of the Pension
Main dining room / breakfast room

Double room  with amenities
Toilet and bath facilities



2. Fundacion Pacita Batanes Nature Lodge, Batanes  – “Your Batanes trip is not complete without visiting this place”
What a beautiful place to be in Basco, Batanes.  This pricey hotel is strategically located on top of a hill overlooking the rolling hills and ocean.  Facilities are extraordinarily good and the beautiful gardens are well kept. It has a little restaurant, Café du Tukon, that is worth trying --- food is good and service is friendly. I will recommend this place to all my friends visiting Basco, Batanes, to see and experience. (Trip Advisor Review by M.G. Imson, June 19, 2018)

3. Batanes SeaSide Lodge and Restaurant - National Road, Basco, 3900 Batanes; www.batanesseasidelodge.com (+63 999 994 2313; +63 999 992 4977; +63 945 567 7501) (as recommended by Batanes Tour Guide 'Dang')
This facility offers accommodation at the Main Building (Beach Front - 5 minutes drive from the airport and overlooking the Basco Bay) and its Annex Building (Basco Town Proper)- 3 minutes drive from the airport; hear Ivantan shops and private markets). Both branches are walking distance to the Basco Cathedral Church and the Basco Plaza.

Published rates at the Beach Front are as follow: Double Occupancy, Php 3000; Triple Occupancy, Php 3, 400; Quadruple Occupancy, Php 4,200; and Quintuple Occupancy, Php 5,000.
Rates for the Annex Building are as follow: Double Occupancy, Php 2,000; Triple Occupancy, Php 2,500; and Quadruple Occupancy, Php 3,100

4. Kenadrian's Hometel -Block 11, Lot 152 National Road, Kayvaluganan, Basco, Batanes
This is a budget accommodation with 6 units where each unit accommodates 5 to 11 people. Fully furnished rooms with kitchen inside where guests can cook.  There is free use of stove, gas, utensils and drinking water. (this place was suggested by Tour Guide 'Dang" but author has not personal experience in using this facility).

Professional Tour Guides
To add pleasure to your visit, it is best that you get a professional tour guide for the duration of your stay.  The Tour Guides we had were part of our tour package. Both were very professional, friendly and helpful.


Professional Tour Guides Dang (L) and Michelle (R)
Practical Must-Know Tips for Batanes Travel

1. Book your flights early. Flights to Batanes, either from Manila or Clark, are limited. If student or senior, don't forget to get the discounted rate.

2. If driving from Manila to  Clark, Pampanga, give ample allowance to your travel time because of traffic and/ or road congestion. Consider taking the P2P Bus to save you worries on driving and parking at the airport in Clark.

3. Always check the weather in Batanes in advance to help you decide on wears to take. Bringing foldable umbrella and  light jacket, wind breaker or sweater is highly recommended. Wear comfortable walking or hiking shoes/sandals. Best time to travel to Batanes is from December to May (cool weather and less rains).

4. Bring enough medicines as there are no big pharmacies in Batanes. Also note that there is just one hospital in Batanes manned by one doctor.

5. Food is expensive in Batanes. There are no markets or supermarkets. Small groceries and "sari-sari" stores sell goods priced higher than Manila. Safe to bring your favorite snacks, cup noodles or canned goods.

6. There is only one bank (PNB) in Batanes and its lone ATM may not always be working.  It is suggested that you pre-pay your accommodation and other costs so you bring less cash. Credit cards are not widely accepted in the island.

7. If you are just two or three in your  group, consider taking the Tricycle Tours instead of renting a whole car or van.  Tricycle drivers are often accredited and knowledgeable enough where to bring you. Whole day rental of Cogon-covered tricyle ranges from Php 1000 to 1,500. Also bike rentals are available all over for Php 300 to 1,000 per day.

8. If you plan to bring home some dried or smoked flying fish, buy them a day before your return travel. Most hotels will allow you to keep what you bought in their freezers.  Consider buying a Styrofoam container but don't seal them until they get inspected by Quarantine at the airport. Airport counter personnel always have masking and sealing tapes with them.

9. Boat travel to Sabtang Island is always rough and can make you feel seasick and recite your prayers. Bring medicines for motion sickness.

10. Wifi and internet connections are always a problem in Batanes.

Helpful contact information
1. Batanes Grand Holidays Travel and Tours - bghtraveltours@gmail.com; Anselmo "Elmo" Quilang (+63 917 177 2882; 078 844 2880)
2.  Pension Ivatan - Fely Villanueva, Office Manager (0917 901 9094; 0999 482 9709) email: fely_221@yahoo.com; Teresita Valiente (Owner/ General Manager)
3. Ms. Hilda (Dang) Agsolid, Professional Guide - +63 947 215 9098
4. Ms.Michelle, Professional Guide - +63 928 938 6447